Luxor and Aswan: temples, Nile cruise and where to stay

Luxor comes up again and again when Algerians plan a trip to Egypt, nearly always with the same question: should you go on a day trip from Hurghada, or spend a few days on the Nile? Together with Aswan, further south, Luxor is the heart of Upper Egypt: some of the most famous temples in the world, a possible cruise between the two cities, and a climate that makes the choice of season important. Here is what you need to know.

Luxor, ancient Thebes

Luxor stands on the site of ancient Thebes, several times the capital of Egypt. "Ancient Thebes with its Necropolis" has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1979. The Nile splits the visit in two:

• On the east bank, the modern town and the two great temples: Karnak and Luxor Temple, right by the river.
• On the west bank, the necropolis: the Valley of the Kings, home to Tutankhamun's tomb, the Valley of the Queens, Queen Hatshepsut's temple at Deir el-Bahari and the Colossi of Memnon.

Allow at least two full days, one for each bank. Early in the morning, hot-air balloons fly over the west bank when the weather allows.

Aswan, Philae and Abu Simbel

Heading south, upstream, you reach Aswan, the city of the First Cataract. Highlights:

• Philae Temple, dedicated to Isis: threatened by rising water, it was taken apart and rebuilt on the nearby island of Agilkia.
• The Aswan High Dam, inaugurated in 1971, which created Lake Nasser.
• Abu Simbel, much further south towards the Sudanese border: Ramses II's two temples were cut up and rebuilt higher between 1963 and 1968, during an international campaign launched by UNESCO. Around 22 February and 22 October, the rising sun lights up the back of the great temple. It is a day trip from Aswan, by road or on a domestic flight.

The Nubian Monuments, from Abu Simbel to Philae, are also a World Heritage Site.

The Nile cruise between Luxor and Aswan

This is the classic way to travel between the two cities. Most programmes last 3 or 4 nights: sailing from Aswan to Luxor, with the current, is quicker than the other way round. The usual stops:

• Esna and its lock, where the wait can last several hours depending on traffic;
• Edfu and its Temple of Horus;
• Kom Ombo, a double temple dedicated to Sobek, the crocodile god, and Haroeris, the falcon god.

There are two kinds of boat: classic multi-deck cruise ships, and dahabiyas, smaller traditional sailing boats that carry far fewer passengers and sail by day. Before you choose, ask how many nights are really spent on board, which visits are included and what meals are covered.

Where to stay in Luxor and Aswan

• Luxor, east bank: the town, the Nile corniche, restaurants, and Karnak and Luxor Temple close by. The most practical choice for a first stay without a car.
• Luxor, west bank: quieter and as close as possible to the necropolis; the town and most restaurants are across the river.
• Aswan: choose a hotel on the Nile, handy for boat trips to Philae and the islands.

If you take the cruise, you sleep on board: just plan one or two hotel nights before or after.

Luxor from Hurghada: day trip or stay?

Many Algerian travellers discover Luxor from Hurghada, on the Red Sea. Day trips exist, but the road is long: a night in Luxor makes the visit far more comfortable. The simplest plan is a few beach days in Hurghada, then two or three nights in Luxor. To pick your area by the sea, read our guide where to stay in Hurghada.

When to go

Luxor and Aswan have a desert climate: it almost never rains and summers are extremely hot, with highs often above 40 °C. In winter the days are mild but nights can be cool, so bring a jacket. Sightseeing is therefore much more pleasant from autumn to early spring. Whatever the season, the sun is strong: wear a hat, carry water and visit early in the morning.

Entry requirements

As a rule, Algerian travellers would need a visa to enter Egypt; conditions can change, so check them with an Egyptian embassy or consulate, or on the official website, before you travel. For health and safety, read the official advice before departure. Nreservi does not handle visa applications.

Book your hotel in dinars

For your nights by the sea, start your search on our hotels in Hurghada page. For a hotel in Luxor or Aswan, contact our agency: we will tell you what is available on your dates. From Algeria, you pay in dinars, without a bank card: BaridiMob, bank transfer or cash at our Telemly agency. Living abroad? You can also pay online by bank card, and your voucher is sent to you after payment. Before confirming, check the board basis and the cancellation terms. Couples should bring their family record book (livret de famille) and ask us to check the hotel's policy. Everything about payment is in our guide booking a hotel without a bank card.

One more stop? Read where to stay in Cairo and Alexandria: where to stay and what to see.

See hotels in Hurghada

Nreservi, online travel agency — 1st floor, 116 boulevard Colonel Krim Belkacem (Telemly), Algiers Centre — +213 540 28 40 40.