Ghardaïa and the M'Zab Valley: what to see, how to get there, where to stay

On the edge of the Sahara, Ghardaïa is the largest of the five towns of the M'Zab Valley. Its houses packed around a mosque, its lanes and its palm groves make it one of the most striking stops in southern Algeria, especially between autumn and spring. For families living in France, Belgium, the UK or Canada who come home for the winter, it is also an easy few-day trip to add to a stay in the north. Here is what to see, how to get there and where to stay.

The M'Zab pentapolis, a World Heritage site

The M'Zab Valley brings together five ksour, or fortified towns: Ghardaïa, Beni Isguen, Melika, Bounoura and El Atteuf, often called the "pentapolis". Their history goes back to the 11th century, and the valley has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 1982.

Each town stands on a hillock around its mosque, whose minaret also served as a watchtower. Houses run down in tight rings to the ramparts, and palm groves stretch between the towns. It is a unique townscape, best understood from a high point at sunset.

What to see in the M'Zab Valley

• The ksar of Ghardaïa: the largest of the five towns, with lanes climbing towards the mosque. A good place for a first walk.
• Beni Isguen: visits to the ksar must be made with a local guide. Modest dress is expected, smoking is forbidden, and residents should not be photographed: follow your guide's advice.
• Melika, Bounoura and El Atteuf: the three other, quieter towns complete the picture. A guide will help you choose which ones to see in the time you have.
• The palm groves: between the towns, the palm gardens offer shade and calm, to explore on foot or from a guesthouse.

A tip: these are lived-in neighbourhoods, not museums. A discreet, respectful visit is the best way to be made welcome.

When to go

Summer is very hot in the valley. The most pleasant season usually runs from October to April: mild days and beautiful light, but cool nights in midwinter, so pack a jacket. Winter school holidays in Europe and Canada therefore fall right in the season. Our guide on when to go to Algeria covers the seasons region by region.

Getting there from abroad

Most visitors from abroad first land in Algiers, then continue to Ghardaïa. The town has its own airport, Noumérat – Moufdi Zakaria, which is why many people search for a "Noumerat Ghardaia hotel" for their arrival night. Plan a transfer between the airport and your accommodation, in town or in the palm groves. Ghardaïa can also be reached by road from the north, but the drive is long and best split in two.

Allow two or three nights to visit the towns without rushing. Our 7 to 10-day Algeria itinerary shows how to add the M'Zab to a trip in the north.

Where to stay in Ghardaïa

Ghardaïa has hotels in town as well as guesthouses in the palm groves:

• [Mzab Hôtel](/en/hotel/mzab-hotel), formerly the Les Rostémides hotel, on a hill facing the valley, with an outdoor pool;
• [Hôtel El Djanoub](/en/hotel/djanoub-hotel), a long-established address on rue Ahmed Talbi, a few minutes from the centre, with a pool;
• [Hôtel Belvédère](/en/fiche-hotel/hotel-belvedere-ghardaia), in Bouhraoua, on the heights above the valley, with a restaurant and a 24-hour front desk;
• [Akham](/en/hotel/akham), a traditional guesthouse in the M'Zab valley, with home cooking from the region;
• [Gîte Tarist](/en/hotel/gite-tarist), another guesthouse in the Beni Isguen palm grove, with Mozabite-style rooms;
• [Ferme Habib Résidence](/en/hotel/ferme-habib-residence), a residence on a Saharan farm in Sebseb, about an hour south of the valley.

With children, hotels with a pool are handy on warm days; to experience the M'Zab from the inside, pick a guesthouse. Every address is on our hotels in Ghardaïa page.

Going further into the Sahara

Ghardaïa is a good gateway to the desert. To go further, our guide The Algerian Sahara in winter: which oasis to choose? compares Ghardaïa, Taghit, Béni Abbès, Timimoun and Djanet. See also our articles on Timimoun, the red oasis and on UNESCO sites in Algeria.

Before you go

Visa. With an Algerian passport, a visa is in principle not an issue. If a family member travels on a foreign passport only, a visa is in principle required: check the current rules with the Algerian consulate that covers your area, and read our Algeria visa page.

Safety and health. Before you go, read your own government's travel advice (FCDO in the UK, France Diplomatie, Global Affairs Canada, the Belgian Foreign Affairs service) and ask your doctor about health matters. Our article Is Algeria safe for travellers? explains where to find it.

Couples. Read our article on the family record book at hotels.

Booking your hotel in Ghardaïa

On Nreservi you book your hotel online. In Algeria you pay in dinars without a bank card: BaridiMob, bank transfer or cash at our Telemly office. Living abroad? You can also pay online by bank card, and your voucher is sent to you after payment. Handy when part of the family books from Algiers and the rest from abroad.

See hotels in Ghardaïa

Nreservi, online travel agency — 1st floor, 116 boulevard Colonel Krim Belkacem (Telemly), Algiers Centre — +213 540 28 40 40.